Visited Dennis Severs’ house a little while ago. In Folgate Street, tucked away amid modern City high-rise and the backside of Spitalfields. It’s open only very occasionally, a fact I like; makes it more of an effort to get at, which always makes things special. The house was bequeathed, on Severs’ death, to the Spitalfields Trust, and is now looked after, and tenanted, by those who knew him. The chap on the door, who used to live there as a guardian/tenant himself, is at pains to tell you to move around it quietly: ‘It is not a museum, and it’s not the National Trust,’ he said. It is more like a work of art in time, an installation, a happening. As the artist-creator of this ‘living canvas’ wanted his visitors to understand, ‘You either get it, or you don’t.’
Severs, an American by birth, but with a fascination for England from his teens, moved over in the ’70s, and into this old Georgian house, behind Spitalfields’ market, a decade after the self-styled ‘living sculptures’ of Gilbert & George had moved to Fournier Street, nearby.
When I returned to London myself, another decade later, many of these old houses were still neglected, boarded up. I was then staying in a squat in Camberwell Green, settled in years previously by antipodean friends. Owing to the fact of them having been there so long (along with its only legal tenant, a sweet, reclusive widow in the basement flat, in her nineties, housebound, and glad of our company) they had reached the 12-year ‘right to ownership’ status. Though the council hadn’t bothered with the squat till now (during Thatcher’s underfunded, sorry, social housing scheme, it was awaiting ‘redevelopment’, as it turned out, selling on), they sprung to life, threatening both squatters and the old girl, who’d lived there all her married life, with eviction. Court case notwithstanding, the squat was a grandiose, four-story early Victorian affair, and while there was plenty of life going on south of the river, it didn’t suit me. The rickety backstreets around Brick Lane, with their charmingly derelict, 18th-century weavers’ cottages, was where I wanted to be. So I regularly hiked over on a Sunday, to buy beigals enough to see us through the week, and to check out the treasures on the market stalls. (This was before the market became ‘fashionable’, the trendy youth moved in and the barrow-boys moved out: it had a glorious ramshackle character and its stalls then still sold an amazing variety of ‘junk’.)
At that time the barrow-boys turned up at 4 or 5 in the morning, which on occasion I did too; it’s a great time for exploring - a city has a thrilling, secret character at such an hour. I loved being there while they were setting up: I’d listen to the banter over a bacon sandwich in the tiny grubby Cheshire Street caff (now a ‘retro’ shop), which served tea thick and strong enough to stand your hair on end. I’d look at the boots at Bateman’s, and the musty old clothes of the huge old Jewish trader’s shop next door who, the whole time market was on, never seemed to stir from his chair in front of the door. There were real treasures to be had, too; I once bought a grimy necklace for a tenner, of pearls and amethysts the size of peas. Lovely, delicate, Quattrocentro colours, which was what appealed, but even I could see the pearls were real. (Real pearls, like most natural objects, have a certain quality to them that just can’t be faked. A sense of ‘life’ - what, I suppose, the Chinese might call its Qi – though I’ve my own pet theory. Maupassant’s ‘The Necklace’ is a nice elaboration on this, but, tsk, there I go, losing the thread.) ‘Genuine Victorian, that, love,’ said the bloke on the stall, who knew it too, ‘Just needs a bit of a clean.’ When I really did lose the thread, about a year later, and had its beads restrung, the pretty thing was valued at thirty times its price.
Back to Folgate Street, which is where we were headed, before the pretty shiny things sidetracked us, like magpies. So, Severs moved in, in the 1970s, only tenant in a row of boarded-up houses. Undeterred either by a dog carcase in the basement room (killed on the road, he supposed, and shoved in through the broken window), or, the first morning after his arrival, on his way to scavenge left-overs at the market (which then still had two perpetually-smouldering bonfires, with tramps gathered like ‘a nightly installation’ around them of a night - ‘I named the tableau The Burghers of Calais‘, he wrote), rounding the corner on Elder Street to find a tramp impaled upon a railing. Perhaps Severs slightly exaggerates - carcases aside, it all adds to local colour. He slept in each of the ten rooms, one after another, to let their history ‘reveal themselves’ to him. Then he set about recreating what he saw (working, as he put it, ‘from inside out’ ) with the help of his spiritual tenants, Edward and Mrs Jervis.
The house is a marvel of interior furnishing, and a fascinating exercise in rethinking a ‘home’. Like John Soane on speed, Severs collects and clutters, loading it with stuff to bombard the senses, responding always to what he perceived as its ’soul’ and ‘the spaces in between’.
‘I can only dig in the air for the core of a subject and then work outwards from there,’ he wrote. I understand what Severs means, my own thinking is the same. Like medieval gardeners, who related everything, from the correct distance for planting leeks (a hand span) to measuring the girth of a tree (by arm span), to a man’s own reach, the Georgians based their proportions likewise upon the stature, and beliefs of the man. The best architecture, and art, in my view, always comes back to this: how it relates to the man who inhabits it.
I won’t spoil your pleasure by leading you through the Hogarthian tallow- and lavender- and must-scented rooms Severs created. The artist himself provides pointers enough, should you care to visit (related more fully in his posthumously-published book). But although all the rooms have things to engage one’s attention, including a real, chirping, caged canary, I was ‘caught up’ by it most successfully, and perhaps unsurprisingly, in those two extremes of a house in which I myself always feel most at home: basement scullery and rickety attic. Reaching its attic, up winding stairs hung over with linen drawers and chemises, I came to a room, a shotgun at the door, and its ceiling collapsing in a state of dereliction, in which hung a small painting of a one-eyed man. I began to see where the Jervises were going. In the final room, a scene of hopeless poverty and disarray reminiscent of Doré (or Arthur Morrison’s Child of the Jago), a very real stench of decay gradually penetrated my senses. I sniffed at myself surreptitiously (I’m older than I was, and one can never be too sure). Then I saw it, tucked away, amid unmade bed and rotting cabbage. Phew. The stench was it, and not me. I don’t think the National Trust runs to full chamberpots; its presence said much for the authenticity of the place. (A relief, that for once the dreary old bones of Health & Safety hadn’t stuck its nose in.) It was no doubt filled, in the true spirit of the ‘Game’ by the current tenant/guardian of the Jervises’ place. Unless, as Severs would have it, it was by Jervis himself.
One’s receptivity to places such as this often depends on mood. I’m a little nostalgic, myself, at the moment, for various reasons, so perhaps more receptive than usual to its magic. I’ve no photos of Severs’ place, so here instead is a photo of my own. A magical atmosphere is what draws me to it, as it was Dennis Severs to his. The trick with magical things is not to clutch at them too eagerly, the more you worry them, the more surely they vanish. It’s something I don’t always manage, my restless mind too often fiddling and poking in spite of my better sense. Best, as with all sweet things in life, to just take a few steps back and let them suffuse you. Dennis Severs’ House is a charming exercise in this.
Dennis Severs’ House http://tinyurl.com/4ny9
Update, 30 June. Come in, sit down… I’ve just been sent a picture, and YouTube link, by the nice chap on the door. So here it is, by photographer Rebecca Miller. It captures well the look of the place, but perhaps not quite its atmosphere, which is often a very personal matter, one of mood and moment.
YouTube. http://tinyurl.com/3tr9uq













